Colorful Qaidam (6) Golmud

Golmud means "a place with dense rivers" in Mongolian. Golmud is not short of water. The adjacent Kunlun Mountains provide endless water sources for it. However, Golmud lacks soil and the saline-alkali soil is not conducive to farming. Golmud currently has a resident population of 240,000, which is incomparable with the counties in the mainland, which is 5,600,000 or even millions, but its status cannot be underestimated. As the largest industrial city in the Qaidam Basin, it is a three-dimensional aviation, railway and highway hub. The traffic is well developed and it is the last stop before entering Tibet. The vast area from Golmud across Kunlun Mountain to Tanggula Mountain is basically no man’s land. After Tanggula Mountain is Tibet, Anduo County at the foot of Tanggula Mountain is my next destination.

Plan to stay in Golmud on June 23rd and 24th for two days, the first day of Chaerhan Salt Lake and the second day of Hoh Xil.

I planned to go to the Hexi carousel to carpool to Chaerhan Salt Lake in the afternoon. In the morning, I went to the railway station square and asked about the shuttle bus or carpool to Hoh Xil or Amdo. When I met a taxi guy, Ga Zhangli persuaded me to go to Chaerhan Salt Lake in the morning and take his car. After negotiating the round-trip price of 100 yuan, I quickly called Alan and arranged to pick her up at the hostel.

The road from Golmud to Chaerhan Salt Lake is very good. On both sides of the road are high-voltage iron towers and rows of high-voltage lines. I wonder where this line is from. Ga Zhang told me that this is the "West-to-East Power Transmission" line, which stunned me. I said this is not a power generation base either, "West-to-East Power Transmission". The north, central, and south lines are the northern line from Inner Mongolia, Shaanxi and other provinces and regions to the North China power grid; the middle line is from Sichuan, Chongqing and other provinces and cities to the Central and East China power grid; the south line is from Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi and other provinces and regions. South China power transmission has nothing to do with Qinghai. Ga Zhang argued: Qaidam is rich in power resources, and there are many wind power generation around Golmud. Well, I hurriedly searched the Internet, but I was really ignorant and ashamed. Qinghai is rich in various clean energy sources such as solar, wind, and hydropower. At present, Qinghai has a surplus of about 20 million kilowatts of photovoltaic and wind power installed capacity, and will have a surplus of about 30 million kilowatts by 2025. However, Qinghai's own digestion capacity is limited and resources cannot be digested effectively. As early as 2012, Qinghai Power Grid built two major channels of 750 kV power transmission from west to east from north to south, realized the connection with Gansu power grid, and promoted the development of Qaidam Circular Economic Zone. This year, Qinghai Power Grid will send 8,000 kV UHV to Henan. The DC project was delivered in July, effectively alleviating the problem of Northwest New Energy’s abandonment of wind and light, and the title of Qaidam Cornucopia added a treasure of clean energy.

Chaerhan Salt Lake is actually the factory area of ​​the Qinghai Salt Lake Group. The timing of our visit was not good. Before September last year, we still didn’t need tickets. Because tourists are more and more considering the safety hazards affecting production. The local government mandates that tourism companies enter. The investment of 200 million yuan is currently under development, so some places are not fully open. The salt reserves of Chaerhan Salt Lake are the largest in the world, and the area is second only to the mirror of the sky in Bolivia. Chaerhan means "the king of salt" in Mongolian.

Golmud was born from the Qinghai-Tibet Highway and developed from the Chaerhan Salt Lake. As the largest potassium-magnesium salt deposit in China, the salt lake contains 60 billion tons of potassium, sodium, magnesium, lithium and other resources, of which potassium chloride reserves account for 97% of the country’s proven reserves, the reserves of sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, and lithium chloride also rank first in the country and are Golmud’s natural treasures. Before the development of the Chaerhan Salt Lake in 1958, China could not independently produce potash fertilizers, and all potash fertilizers were imported. For farmers, chemical fertilizer is the lifeblood. Grain production depends on fertilizer. I remember that when I was young, my cousin in the countryside couldn’t buy chemical fertilizer, and it was difficult to find fertilizer if I asked my dad to trust someone. The mass production of potash fertilizer in Chaerhan Salt Lake is in a sense. Ensure China's food security.

The Salt Industry Group now ranks fourth in the world in its annual potash output, and is the largest potash producer in China with nearly 20,000 registered employees. It is known as the "King of Potash" in the industry. Local employees told me that they would make a profit if they simply produce potash, but they are losing money in deep processing, but now the country has demand in this area, even if it loses temporarily, they must continue to do it. Before entering the factory, I saw a magnesium metal industrial park, which is an integrated magnesium metal project under the group. Magnesium metal has an important position in national production. For example, magnesium-lithium alloys are widely used in aerospace medical equipment and notebook computers. .

I’m here to play. How did it feel like visiting the factory? Let’s get back to business. Ga Zhang pulled us to the entrance of the factory and we were not allowed to enter. Then a tourist bus pulled us into the scenic spot. Although tickets were not required, the bus fare was charged 50 yuan, it hurts. It is about three kilometers from the gate to the scenic spot. I didn't pay attention to the explanation of the tour guide, and I wonder if the section of the walk is Wanzhang Salt Bridge. On the road passing by a courtyard, there are bags of potash piled in them, which are not big from a distance. The little guide girl said that this bag weighs a ton. There are separated salt ponds in the plant area, each about 3 square kilometers. The concentration of the salt lake here feels higher than that of the Chaka salt lake, and the watersides are all white crystals.

When you arrive at the so-called scenic spot, it is actually one of the salt ponds, but the salt crystallization effect on the side of the pond is better. The salt flowers are beautiful like large white flowers floating on the water, and there is also a long strip of pure white salt flats. It feels like Maldives. Because it is still under tourism development, many places are not open, sorry!

It is very important to go to the salt lake to play in the weather. The better the light, the stronger the reflection of the lake surface and the better the photographing effect. If there are more white clouds in the sky reflecting on the lake surface, it will be more perfect. It was a bit too sunny today, there were no clouds in the sky, the sky was blue with a touch of Puran, and the lake was olive green. The sun is too strong and the ultraviolet rays are too strong to be too lazy to go far, and there is nothing special in the distance. You can see a few work trucks working safely. The effective range of activities is no more than 1 square kilometer. Alan and I are bored. We can only shoot wildly at the salt flowers and the white salt flats from various angles. Fortunately, we brought red jackets, and Alan and I put on various Pose, of course, the Titanic has to be styling. The Salt Lake must be red.

Ga Zhang was waiting for us at the gate of the factory when he came out of the salt lake. On the way back, the Kunlun Mountains in the distance lay in front of him. The snow peaks were pure and majestic. Galloping forward, it seemed that he couldn't reach it.

It was almost two o'clock back in the city, so I took a taxi to the Changjiang Road Logistics Park to inquire about the ride to Tibet. I planned to take a shuttle bus to Amdo, but when I arrived in Golmud, I found out that since the Qinghai-Tibet Railway was running, long-distance buses on the Qinghai-Tibet Highway have gradually become unavailable. It is very unsafe for passengers in the district to have a high reaction, especially now that the Qinghai-Tibet Highway is extremely busy and there are frequent traffic jams. It is very troublesome to get a vehicle to get stuck on the road. But I don't want to take a train. The trains depart from Golmud at night, and I can't see anything in the dark. I just want to see the outside scene. Besides, Alan doesn't want to go to Hoh Xil. It is not suitable for me to charter a car by myself. If I can get a car to Hoh Xil and then go all the way to Amdo, it would be good.

The Changjiang Road Logistics Park is at the intersection of Highway 109, so that it is convenient for large trucks to enter and exit Tibet. Empty trucks only come back from Tibet. Those loaded with goods are ready to leave. Drivers gather in twos and threes. In the chat, I asked, of course, from all over the country and my hometown of Anhui. There are also many Tibetan drivers. The cockpit is beautifully dressed. After taking a look around, I felt that it was not realistic to take a ride. Those full of cargo would leave for the night train soon. As for the empty car, I was not sure when it would be loaded.

Fortunately, I met an enthusiastic Master Wang and said that he will load the goods tomorrow morning. It is convenient to pick me up during the day. Master Wang is from Changchun, Jilin, and my grandson is almost in elementary school. In 1970, Master Wang said that if he is strong enough to work, he will not be idle. The money he earns can still be used for his grandson's studies, and he has to attend extracurricular classes or something. Long-distance large trucks are very hard and dangerous. They are also in the plateau area. Master Wang said that as long as he got on the car, he drove for 16 hours continuously, and even more than 18 hours in extreme cases. Inexplicably moved in my heart, this is our great ordinary Chinese, hardworking, courageous, and willing to die for the sake of our children, and it is this tenacity and tenacity that supports our Chinese nation's endless life, even after so many miserable winds and rains, it still stands. In the east of the world.

Wake up early the next day, Master Wang’s call came before Ga Zhang’s call came, and said that there is a carpool to Hoh Xil and asked me if I should go, see if Master Wang’s loading is not visible yet, there is a carpool here. The opportunity is great! After a while, the driver came to pick me up. The driver's surname was Zhang. Later, I remarked to him on WeChat as the Golmud driver Lao Jianghu, which shows that I recognize him. Master Zhang, I can only call him Xiao Zhang, eight or nine years younger than me! But they got married at the age of 18 and their son is now a college graduate, and my daughter is also in high school. I admire it. I am still struggling to study for my daughter at this age.

This year's epidemic has dealt a great blow to the tourism industry. There are fewer tourists than in previous years. Zhang spent a long time in Golmud and didn't talk to another tourist who was engaged in photography. He had to drag me and another passenger and set off. The fellow carpooler was a Taoist priest, wearing a small wat, wearing a white coat like their Taoist casual clothes. The Taoist came from a Taoist temple in Xining, and now he is going to the Taoist Dragon and Phoenix Shrine in Kunlun Mountain. Taoist priests murmured that this year was too unlucky because the Taoist temple in Xining was not open to the epidemic, which affected the incense too much. Fortunately, the Dragon and Phoenix Palace was not affected, so he was sent to station.

From the city of Golmud, it is a checkpoint. I saw that it was under the jurisdiction of Nagqu City. It was strange that it was the border of Golmud, Qinghai, and it was far from the administrative region of Tibet. How could it belong to Nagqu City? Xiao Zhang said that the Qinghai-Tibet Highway is under the jurisdiction of Tibet, and the maintenance cost of the frozen soil area of ​​the plateau highway is extremely high, and Qinghai cannot afford it. I wonder if Qinghai has no money and Tibet is rich? Xiao Zhang also said that Tibet has a lot of special policy funding from the state, and the Qinghai-Tibet Highway was originally built for Tibet.

After passing the checkpoint, it quickly entered the Kunlun Mountains. The car drove along the Golmud River for a long time. The Golmud River originated from the glacial melt water of the Kunlun Mountains and injected into the Chaerhan Salt Lake in the middle and east of the basin. It is the largest in the Qaidam Basin. One of the inland rivers, the Golmud River is the main supply river for the Chaerhan Salt Lake, which has greatly affected the salt lake evolution process. The Golmud river is like being split with a knife, with steep and vertical river banks, and the loess is bare without a trace of green. It is the mother river of Golmud City, and an important water source for urban life and industrial water, agriculture and urban greening.

After driving in the mountains for less than an hour, it is Kunlun Shenquan. It is located at Nachitai on the north bank of the Kunlun River, 90 kilometers away from Golmud, at an altitude of 3700. It is amazing that in such a high altitude place, there is such a flood of plateau spring water with a constant temperature of 7 degrees Celsius all year round. It has a magical legend that it is the magic of Tiangong jade brewing jelly sprinkled on the earth, and the local Tibetans also regard the ice-free spring as a divine spring and often worship the spring water. The diameter of the spring mouth is 1.6 meters, and the spring eye gushes from the center and spreads around it like a lotus flower in concentric circles. Kunlun Sacred Spring is the largest non-freezing spring in Kunlun Mountains. The spring water is spewed out from the Kunlun Mountains after the melting of ice and snow infiltrates into the underground flow. Before spraying out of the stratum, it has accumulated undercurrent in the ground for more than 20 years. It is rich in various beneficial effects to the human body. Mineral composition. A local Tibetan next to him was taking a bucket to fetch water from the spring. I was inspired and filled a full cup. Xiao Zhang told me that his sports car passed by here and filled a few buckets home every few days and used this for tea. Natural mineral water, I’m so enthusiastic.

Behind the Shenquan is a small wetland park formed by the outflow of spring water. The clear waves are rippling, the green moss is surging, and the aquatic plants are luxuriant. It is not magical that there is such a different kind of paradise among the barren hills of this plateau. The water from the wetland flows down and eventually flows into the surging Kunlun River.

Continue to travel 15 kilometers from Nachitai to the highest bridge along the Qinghai-Tibet Railway—Sancha River Bridge. The confluence of Xiaonanchuan and Yeniugou is 3,800 meters above sea level. The canyon formed by alluvial strata is like a chopping axe. The bridge stands in the canyon and traverses the cliff. The bridge is 690.19 meters in length and 54.1 meters from the bottom of the valley. It is the highest bridge on the Qinghai-Tibet Railway line. It looks magnificent and magnificent. Behind all this is the wisdom and sweat of the builders. It takes two years to build a large bridge with a concrete pouring volume of more than 30,000 cubic meters like Sancha River, even in the inland areas with better conditions. In order to ensure the smooth opening of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway, the builders have overcome the high cold, low pressure, lack of oxygen, Strong winds, heavy rains, strong ultraviolet radiation, earthquakes and other threats have set the world's first winter concrete pouring construction of high-cold railway bridges, and finally completed the bridge construction successfully within a one-year construction period.

It took less than ten minutes to reach the Promise Dragon Phoenix Palace-the world's highest Taoist temple at 3,700 meters above sea level, which is the destination of Zhang Daoshi. Located in the valley, the Taoist Temple is dedicated to the Taoist Temple of the Three Madonnas (West Queen Mother, Nine Heavens Profound Daughter, Golden Saint Old Mother), so it is also called Xi Wangmu Temple. The statue of Jiang Ziya is enshrined in the square of Taoist Temple, and it is said that Jiang Ziya gained the Tao here. There are also many granite stone pillars on the square with the words and sentences of "Tao De Jing" engraved on them. They are full of philosophical and thought-provoking thoughts. I can't help but introspect after writing here.

Leaving the Dragon and Phoenix Palace, the car drove through the mountains, curious that there were shallow water canals on the side of the road, which stretched for a long time. Xiao Zhang said that this was the source of the Chumar River. He was so excited that this is the north source of the Yangtze River? Tuotuo River is the source of Zhengyuan and Dangqu is the source of Nanyuan. But think about it wrong. The Chumar River originates from the southern foot of the Black Ridge Mountains of Hoh Xil Mountain in the west. The Chumar River runs from east to west. Xiao Zhang insisted that he once pulled a member of the Sanjiangyuan scientific investigation team and listened to experts. Yes, I did some research on the Internet. It is said that the Chumar River gathers the water from the southern slope of Kunlun Mountain and joins the Tongtian River. This may be the source of the Chumar River. Chumar River is also translated as Qumalai River. It is unknown whether the name of Qumalai County comes from this.

Xuefeng gradually entered the field of vision, either in the front or sideways. The car parked at the West Datan Observation Deck at an altitude of 4179 meters, across the Qinghai-Tibet Railway facing the Yuzhu Peak, also known as Kekesaijimen Peak. The friend who met Xiao Zhang here also brought a young tourist man over, Xiao Zhang chatted with his friend, and I started talking with the young man. The guy had just graduated from a postgraduate degree in geography in Xining. He said that after three years of graduate study and three years of research on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, he almost graduated. He gave me the difference between popular science geology and geography. He said that geography is a little bit more interesting than geology. The geological structure is only a stratigraphic structure for tens of thousands of years. I was stunned and admired. The viewing platform is the best viewing angle to view the Jade Everest, and it is also a good place for snapping pictures. Although the Kunlun Mountains are a huge mountain system, the 6178-meter-high Jade Everest, as the highest peak in the eastern section of Kunlun, stands in front of you, and the shock hits the whole body. The snow-capped mountains are tall and geometric, standing on the surface of the sky, more poetic than any picture scroll, and a long series of snow-capped peaks stretches like a dragon lying on the ground!

Because of its moderate height, gentle slope, easy climbing, and good accessibility, Yuzhufeng is considered to be the most ideal training mountain for beginners. Now the Yuzhufeng National Mountaineering Training Base has been built here, and there are also commercial mountaineering companies. Ordinary people can also participate in the experiential mountaineering project. The cost is about 10,000 yuan, which is expensive and reluctant.

It takes about an hour to drive from Yuzhu Peak to Kunlun Mountain Pass. On the road, you can see that there are camouflage military vehicles gathering in the depths of the valley. Two helicopters hover in the sky. Zhang said that there are more military vehicles here during the exercise season in July and August! The Kunlun Pass is 4759 above sea level and belongs to Qumalai County, Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. It is the only place where the Qinghai-Tibet Highway passes through the Kunlun Mountains. The Qinghai-Tibet Railway also passes here. There is an endless stream of large trucks on the highway. Although the Qinghai-Tibet Railway has already been opened and bears 75% of Tibet's freight volume, the Qinghai-Tibet Highway is still the busiest of the five routes into Tibet.

The Kunlun Pass is high in altitude, complex terrain, and the climate is changeable. The snow in June is not uncommon. We are lucky today, the sky is clear and the sky is clear, the sky is clear and the blue sky is white clouds, but the high-altitude area is also very windy. I don’t feel much in a jacket warm.

Turn out to be born, reckless Kunlun, read the spring of the world. Flying Jade Dragon 3 million, stirring Zhou Tianhan. Kunlun Mountain, also known as Kunlun Xu, is the symbol of the Chinese nation. China’s first sacred mountain has a prominent position as the "ancestor of ten thousand mountains" in the cultural history of the Chinese nation. Many mythological figures from ancient times came out from here. Ancients called Kunlun Mountain. It is the "ancestor of dragons" in China. It is called "Armani Muzhanmu pine" in Tibetan, which means ancestral mountain.

Continue from the Kunlun Mountain Pass not far forward and gradually walk towards the plains and enter the Hoh Xil region. Looking back, we entered the Kunlun Mountains at about 9 a.m. and only came out at about 2 p.m., planning to spend time at various scenic spots, Xiao Zhang said we were inside Walked around for nearly two hundred kilometers. Reading thousands of books and traveling thousands of miles on the road, I used to think that Kunlun Mountain is a long single mountain range, but now I feel the concept of mountain series. It is composed of countless parallel mountains and branches. It is huge, starting from the Pamirs in the west, and has a full length. It is 2500 kilometers, with an average altitude of 5500-6000 meters, and a width of 130-200 kilometers. The total area is more than 500,000 square kilometers in the west and the east. It is worthy of being the "ancestor of ten thousand mountains."

This trip, the most wanted destination is Hoh Xil, a long-awaited place. Hoh Xil means "the barren land under the Kunlun Mountains in the north" in Tibetan. The average altitude is over 4600 meters, the lowest temperature can reach minus 40 degrees Celsius, and the oxygen content is less than half of the plain area. It is called the forbidden zone of human life and the largest in China. The no-man’s land is known as "China's greatest wilderness".

I learned a lot in National Geographic magazine, and I also watched Lu Chuan’s "Kekexili", but I was even more impressed by the documentary "Balance", which took nearly four years to record the protection and theft in Kekexili, Douban 9.4 It can be called a work of conscience. The stories of Sonam Dje, Dhabadje and their western working committee are shocking, moving, shocking and dull.

Hoh Xil was once a tragic story. As early as the 1980s, with the rise of the gold mining industry, poachers were rampant, and Tibetan antelopes were wiped out. The number of Tibetan antelopes quickly dropped from more than 200,000 to less than 20,000. In order to protect the ecology of Hoh Xil, Zhiduo County established the Wild Yak Team of the Western Working Committee in 1991 to be responsible for armed anti-poaching. In 1994, the first captain Sonan Dajie died in a gun battle with poachers. His brother-in-law Zaba Dorje inherited his way. The work of preventing poaching is dangerous and difficult, and the financial poverty is short of funds. The team members can't even get a penny of wages for ten months. Sometimes during the patrol, they only have two ham sausages a day to eat, and they can only drink without water. Muddy water in the rut. Their efforts have improved the poaching situation in Hoh Xil, and together with volunteers, they established China's first natural protection station in Hoh Xil, the Sonang Dajie Nature Reserve, and promoted the establishment of the Hoh Xil Nature Reserve Administration. The establishment of the management bureau did not take into account the treatment of the wild yak team, and the players suffered a great loss of profit for this. Sonam Dajje gave his life to the protection zone and died under the hands of poachers, Dhabad Djeje died under great pressure at his own gun. Sigh, they are all famous Tibetan men, worthy of us. The heroes I remember, now Dhabha Dorje’s sons Putuo Cairen and Choupei Tashi have inherited the careers of their fathers, working in the front line of the Hoh Xil National Nature Reserve Administration and the Sanjiangyuan National Park Administration.

The ecology of Hoh Xil has been greatly improved. Poaching guns have not been heard for more than ten years. The population of various animals, mainly Tibetan antelope, has gradually recovered. Hoh Xil now has more than 230 wild animals and 202 wild plants. The great collection has become a breathtaking biological gene bank in the world. With the development of science and technology, the Hoh Xil world integrated ecological monitoring and big data analysis system is online, and the model of "holding the fist to protect the ecology" will become history.

Hearing Xiao Zhang said that Tibetan antelopes were smart. They used to be very alert and run when they saw people. Now Tibetan antelopes are not afraid of people at all, because they know they are safe. Many Tibetan antelopes are produced by the pond behind the Sonang Dajie Protection Station. Tsai, I asked Xiao Zhang, is it noisy for the Tibetan antelope to be so close to the highway? Xiao Zhang hummed his nose and said that it was safe. The wolves dare not come in places with many lights. Now the Tibetan antelope is not afraid of people, but wolves! Gee, animals are really smart and human.

Hoh Xil is not what it used to be. Poaching has become a thing of the past. At the end of 2017, Altun Mountain, Qiangtang and Qinghai Hoh Xil National Nature Reserve jointly issued a statement: All units and individuals are prohibited from entering the protected area illegally. Create a more free environment for wild animals and better protect the ecological environment of Hoh Xil. During the construction of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway, it passed through the Hoh Xil section. In order to protect wild animals and allow them to migrate freely, 33 corridors or wild animal passages were specially designed for Tibetan antelopes, such as bridges and caves, to reduce the impact of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway on large migratory animals on plateaus such as Tibetan antelopes. Adversely, protect its natural habitat to prevent the birth rate of Tibetan antelope from falling, and maintain the relative stability of the population. Seeing Hoh Xil today, Sonam Dajie and Dzhaba Dorje will also be very pleased that they are alive in the sky.

Running several times in the past two years, I can generally feel that China attaches great importance to environmental protection. There are more and more nature reserves. I remember that in 2010, I took my baby to the Baihu Nature Reserve in the Altai Mountains of Xinjiang. The management was particularly strict and could not enter. , And it’s strictly forbidden to dig cordyceps in the mountains. One is that people who dig cordyceps will make a fire in the mountains to cook and cause forest fires. The other is that they are afraid of digging cordyceps and destroy the ecology of the alpine grassland. Up. The worst time of the Sanjiangyuan Nature Reserve was in the past nine years. Overgrazing, bare pastures, severe rodent damage, and some water sources at the source of the Yangtze River are cut off. The source of life of the Chinese has reached the most critical moment. Listen to Xiao Zhang It is said that at that time, the whole people mobilized to catch mice manually, and the reward for catching a mouse was only one dollar.

It was about 2006 that the Sanjiangyuan region started ecological migration in an all-round way, grazing is strictly prohibited in the protected area, and certain policies have been given to herders moving out. I heard the locals say that there is a new Tibetan village in Golmud which is an ecological resettlement project. The compensation is 40,000 per person per year. The herders have fewer family planning plans, and each family has a few children, so it is still generous. They are pleased and happy. It is now 2020. After so many years of hard work, the ecology of Sanjiangyuan has improved significantly. A few days ago, a foreign politician accused China of irresponsibly destroying the ecology of Sanjiangyuan. I don’t know where the misinformation he got is true. Misunderstanding or deliberate?

Xiao Zhang has been engaged in the travel charter business for more than ten years. He is very knowledgeable and the professionals are different. Along the way, he introduced me to the scenery along the way and the situation of the Sanjiangyuan Nature Reserve. He also discovered Tibetan antelopes several times. I concentrated on the outside world. Without paying attention to the scenery, Xiao Zhang could still keenly spot the Tibetan wild donkey and a wild yak on the hillside in the distance while driving. Xiao Zhang said that there were more Tibetan antelopes in July and August, but at the end of June this season only appeared in twos and threes.

The Sonam Dajie Conservation Station is located by the Qingshui River. Behind the station is a large yard blocked by a large green metal net for wildlife rescue. I walked back along the metal net. On the right is a beautiful and calm river. A few wild ducks swim comfortably on the water. A wild yak soaked in the water was found on the shore. It is estimated that he accidentally fell after drinking water and drowned. Up. There are dots of wild flowers on the ground, which seem so precious and delicate in this harsh natural environment. I lie on the ground holding a SLR and take pictures of the flowers. The close-ups under the lens are more beautiful, and there is a kind of blooming. The indifferent and romantic mountains and wilds. The more you go back, the wider your field of vision is. There is no one around, the blue sky and white clouds are lowly suppressed and reflected on the water. The field silently spreads to the distant horizon to the rolling snow-capped mountains, and you can see Yuxu Peak and Yuzhu in the distance. The sister peak of the peak, according to legend, is the place where the goddess Yuxu lives, and has a kind of immortal spirit of independence.

The heaven and the earth are one, it seems that I have been immersed in it, immersed in the infinity of the heaven and the earth, and feel unable to speak. I was intoxicated and intoxicated. Xiao Zhang’s shouts made me sober. He couldn’t find me everywhere. I was coming in a hurry. He hurriedly said that he would not rush back if there was a big traffic jam and he would spend the night in the wild lake on the Qinghai-Tibet Highway Up.

On the way back, he received a call from Master Wang. He had waited in line for a day in the early morning to load the goods. He was about to set off for Tibet at night. It was too hard and too dangerous. I hurriedly wish him all the best to remind him of safety. I think of the road repairers on the Qinghai-Tibet Highway that I met on the road. They were thin, dark complexion, and lack of oxygen on the plateau. They had to do heavy physical labor such as road repair, and I respected them from the heart. They are great ordinary workers, just like red blood cells carrying oxygen in their blood vessels, maintaining the transportation of materials on the Qinghai-Tibet Highway and ensuring the peace and tranquility of Tibet.

I rushed all the way to Golmud. It was already nine o’clock in the evening, exhausted, and I felt that my state was no longer able to catch the four o’clock in the morning train to Amdo as planned. I was comforting myself that I came to travel and did not come desperately. Then Why are you tired? It happened that I became interested in Mangya, and decided to change the itinerary to go to Mangya the next day. The original theme of the trip "Qinghai-Tibet" should be changed to "Colorful Chaidamu"!